It’s not as hip as nose-to-tail, but lately there’s been growing love for plant parts formerly cast off as compost. Ethnic cuisines have always cherished their B-side plant anatomy, including squash blossoms, almond pits, fig leaves, pea shoots and spinach roots. We didn’t keep much of the less waste/more taste veggie tradition in the US, although there are regional exceptions like carrot and radish tops in gumbo z’herbes. I’ve been seeing other recipes using carrot tops recently, usually combined with carrots as we know them—the roots—in slaws and soups. Likewise tomato leaves have a new fan base, thanks to a leafy tomato sauce for pasta in Paul Bertolli’s book Cooking by Hand. (The NYT published both the recipe and a toxicity clearance from Harold McGee this summer.)

While the leaves of beets are well-known as a friendly relation of chard, I think beet stems are still a sleeper. But they’re milder than the grassy leaves, less intensely sweet than the roots, and tender like celery when roasted. How many plants have not one or two, but three tasty parts?

beets deconstructed

dressed with walnut oil, Greek yogurt, lemon, and chives